Thursday, Sep 09, 2010
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The Renaissance

MAMi Magazine had the pleasure of exploring the emerging fashion industry in Washington, DC. Over the past few years, DCªs fashion retail industry has expanded. Stores opened throughout the District in Georgetown, U Street and Friendship Heights and they have welcomed Cusp, Barneyªs Co-Op, Gucci and many other upscale and independent boutiques. But even with all of this, DC is not considered one of Americaªs fashion destinations. Instead, tourists crowd the streets of the Nationªs Capital year round visiting famous historical sites.

Roaring like the belly of a beast, the DC fashion industry is demanding attention and recognition. Founded five years ago by Ean Williams, DC Fashion Week has become the much anticipated event by many of the independent talents throughout the Metropolitan area. But this Fashion Week was not founded on the same concept as the well-known Mercedes-Benz Fashion Weeks in New York, Miami and Los Angeles. DC Fashion Week puts much emphasis on the Districtªs International flavor. Or should I call it an advantage? With its medley of cultures and demographics, this is the perfect market for many businesses to tap into.

My curiosity was triggered by the recently closed Black Fashion Museum which has deep roots in the history of the DC fashion industry. When preparing to write this story, I knew there were a few power players in the DC industry who I needed to speak with to refine this story. It wasnªt hard to get in contact with these individuals because many of them have been in the news representing their respective events and organizations.

Christine Brooks-Cropper, the President of the Greater Washington Fashion Chamber of Commerce, has had her hand in the fashion industry since the age of 15 and continues to support her love for the business. As the President of the Greater Washington Fashion Chamber of Commerce, she acts as a liaison between the government and the fashion community. After proving the DC government wrong and confirming that a fashion community does exist, Bill 17173 was passed. This Bill was implemented to get the city to invest in fashion as they have been doing for sports and the arts for years. Even though the idea of a Fashion Council was new to many Washingtonians, Christine reports that Los Angeles began their council in March of last year and Toronto has had theirs since the 1980ªs.

Christine also noted that DC has plenty of boutique firms that would need to come together to make the fashion community stronger. This was a concern that was expressed by everyone I spoke to. Licensed makeup artist, Keshua Hunt has been in the business for several years and knows the DC market very well. Keshua mentioned that there is a lot of competition amongst MUAs in DC and those who have been here for years are not welcoming to newcomers. Unlike her contemporaries, she embraces the up and coming artists and wants to see a change in the attitude.

Even though we all know there is strength in numbers, could DC industry professionals possibly fear their competition or are they simply protecting their craft. DC Fashion Week Director Ean Williams has even gone as far as putting a patent on the name and said, ¢€œNo one will ever be able to create another DC Fashion Week.¬‚ However, there is a gap in the market for inquiring minds to tap into and possibly create another fashion week with a different name. Once the word is spread across the country and more corporations draw to this market, the competition will stiffen.

Noted publicist and co-producer of FUNKSHION: Fashion Week Miami Beach, Aba Kwawu has found much success in both DC and Miami. Aba, founder of The Aba Agency, has a strong following in the District with an upscale clientele. In addition to running her high fashion marketing and PR firm, Aba is a professor at Howard University.

With an excellent reputation and resume to match, I was inclined to ask why she created a fashion week in Miami rather than DC. Aba explained that five years ago when she began FUNKSHION, Miami had an emerging fashion market with lots of businesses. This level of the fashion industry did not exist in DC at that time. Miami was beginning to open showrooms and had more of a corporate presence. Aba agrees that DC is an international community with many opportunities for growth from a retail and industry perspective.

Tailor-made

Women arenªt the only ones concerned with fashion and style in the District. Ranging from conservative to trendy, men in DC have created their own demand for fashion. In February, GWFCC hosted the Menªs Style Lounge. This was an event that catered to the stylish men in the city with many retailers and business owners advertising to this well groomed group of men.

One man who is unaffected by the fickle nature of the fashion industry is Shaka King; owner of Shaka King NY. Shaka came to DC as a retailer a few years back and noticed that there was a need for a menªs fashion designer since that segment of the market was idle. After developing a loyal clientele consisting of professional athletes and celebrities, he opened his store. Though his business in DC is successful, he still makes trips to New York for his essentials due to the lack of resources in the District.

Over the past couple of years, there has been a rise in sales within the hair and skin care industries for men. Men are educating themselves and new products designed with them in mind have hit the shelves in many salons and department stores. In DC men can find solace and peace in business such as Michael Craig Menªs Grooming. Michael Craig has created a haven with an assortment of services and products for every man to patronize. When I saw that he was located in the historical Capitol Hill area, I had to ask why since most salons and other comparable businesses were operating in high traffic downtown locations. Having put much thought into the future of his business, Michael saw that Capitol Hill was flourishing and was the best location for him.

Nostalgia

Over 40 years ago, cross-cultural influences struck the American market displaying ethnic influences from all over. America was hit with the Afro-centric Era, the Hippie Movement, Vietnam War and the assassination of JFK. It was in the 1970ªs that the Philadelphia native Rosemary Reed opened her boutique, Toast & Strawberries, in DCªs Dupont Circle. Ms. Reed comments on how time has changed everything. In the 70ªs Dupont Circle served as an informal racial boundary and now it has become a young, multicultural market. Rosemary said that when she first opened in the 70ªs it was very different from what Washington had seen before. Her clients ranged from Luther Vandross and Anita Baker to congressional wives and reporters for the Washington Post.

Impressed by the recent changes in the DC fashion scene, Rosemary says, ¢€œIt takes energy and money to make change¬‚¦People are scattered.¬‚ Ms. Reed goes on to explain that fashion people are not business types and need people to bring them together. DC is dominated by New York and for many years Washingtonians had to go to New York to become validated. ¢€œYou should recognize talent anywhere!¬‚ Understanding the urgency of Bill 17173 and getting people to realize that fashion is first and foremost a business, Ms. Reed stresses that, ¢€œFashion brings in income.¬‚

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